Team rider Jack has been putting the predator surfboard through its paces last few months and this is his verdict.
Our Team Rider Jack Atlantic is back at it again with another Vlog about what he’s been up to surfing in the UK winter.
This episode jack shows off his predator board that he has been frothing on since he got it in 2017. It’s been his go to in the smaller waves because of its versatility of higher volume upfront but high performance in the tail, just watch jack surfing some little gems in a quiet beach and you might just have to agree with him.
Show jack some love and subscribe to his youtube channel or give the video a thumbs up
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So you got the bug and you decided to buy your first surfboard you have a couple of goes and looking to make that first purchase and commit to the surfing life style, but what one to buy?, One of the most common questions asked by beginners. Whatever your level of surfing experience, is getting the right board for your skill level, this is crucial to you progression in surfing
Surfing is personal to everyone and with today’s ever increasing variety in choice of boards, styles and materials, It can be difficult to pinpoint your perfect board. Below we have given you a rough board guide to what boards would be suitable for your progression subject to personal interpretation, depending on how much you surf.
When buying a surfboard it’s always a good idea to try to get some expert advice either from a surf coach/instructor a local board shop or an experience friend as they will be able to gauge a better idea of you surfing level, local conditions and needs. This being said whenever buying a new board it good to keep in mind 3 key principles that will make a big difference to your surfing success
Rocker
A higher or increased nose rocker is usually attributed to boards designed for bigger-more hallow waves. More rocker in the nose allows for a shape that will not “pearl” or plunge into a large, steep wave face when you dropping in were as a flatter more relaxed rocker will help the board to plane quicker and more efficiently, but it will reduce manoeuvrability and increase chance of pearling on take off.
Increased tail rocker can be found in boards shaped for optimal manoeuvrability. A tail that bends off of the water’s surface provides more lift and sensitivity in the tail for driving through radical turns.
Generally speaking, on your standard surfboard, less overall center rocker means the board will glide and paddle better and be more suitable for beginners. More rocker will accommodate intermediate and experienced surfers looking to use every area of the board in order to generate speed and turning power. Aggressive surfers may seek more rocker in their bigger wave boards because the curvature of the nose allows for late drops on consequential waves.
Volume
Volume: the amount of space a surfboard occupies, usually expressed in cubic litres (i.e., 35 CL’s). Basically, the surfboards [length x width x thickness] will yield the volume of a surfboard. However, the key to the placement of the volume, as well as the surfboard’s foil, affects the overall volume of a surfboard greatly.
Volume at its fundamentals can be displaced in a variety of ways in a surfboard e; a 6’6 good wave shortboard can easily have less volume than a 5’6 groveller surfboard. Knowing the right volume for you – a subjective combination of personal preference, body weight, experience, age, fitness, skill level, riding style, etc. – will ensure that you don’t buy a surfboard with too much or too little volume.
To get a rough guide on the volume you need check out our volume calculator
Too little volume on your board means you won’t catch as many waves and will have trouble generating speed this is because of increasing resistance (Drag). Too much volume means the board will feel bulky, hard to transition and turn. But will have less drag and be easier to paddle and catch waves as well as achieving planning speed with less velocity. The more drag you have, the less acceleration you’ll have. Surfers know this intuitively. How many waves have you paddles for and missed just barely, by a half stroke? With a little more volume and little less rocker to help with speed Imagine how many more waves you can catch.
Length
Length of a surfboard is the distance from the nose to the tail of a board. Length can be hugely critical to a surfer’s progression as many beginners make the classic mistake of buying a board too short for them limiting their progression and success in surfing
A few other Considerations to think about when buying a board…
Durability– as a beginner you may hit things with your board or fall on it, so you want to make sure that your board is durable
Practicality will it fit in your car, do you have some were to store it
Manoeuvrability– being able to hold you board under your arm or on your hard and even the right weight can all affect manoeuvrability in and out of the water
Progression– if you’re lucky and are planning on surfing every day think about buying a board that you can progress with. Or if you’re going to surf 1-2 times a year think about a board that will allow you to have fun for in that time.
Fins – as a beginner 3 fins (thruster set up) or a single fins will be adequate also make sure that your fins match the fin boxed of your board i.e. (FCS, Future fins)
So what should I look for?
Length
This is pretty important between 6’8″ to 8 ft long as a beginner “depending on your height”. Try to keep it about a foot to a foot and a half taller than you.
Width
Wider the better. The wider the surfboard the more stable it will be the easier it will be to ride and stand, anything from 20 to 22 inches across, you want to be able sort of fit it underneath your arm, of course this won’t be possible if you got short arms.
Thickness This is important because the thicker the surfboard the more buoyant it is and it will be easier to paddle. Stay within 2-1/4 to 3 inches thick dependent on your weight.
If you are a small person then the thickness can be around 2 to 2 1/2 inches
If you are average size then go for something 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inches.
If you are a big dude then 3 inches should float you.
Don’t get something to big and thick because then you will have a very hard time maneuvering it around.
A rough guide to what surfboards would-be a good idea
“I only surf 1-2 days a year” = Foamboard
“I surf about 5-7 days a year” = Foamboard, Longboard, Minimal
“I surf at least once a month” = Longboard, Minimal, Magic Carpet
“I surf a few days a month” = Longboard, Minimal, Magic Carpet or Fish big shortboard, Grovler.
“I surf every week” = Longboard, Minimal, Magic Carpet, Fish or Big Shortboard, Grovler performance shortboard
Best Surfboard for a beginner.
Depending on you height weight and skill level you will want something with the following quality’s
Long
Wide
High volume (depending on your weight and weight) Check our Volume calculator to find your perfect volume (Button )
stable
easy to catch waves
easy to paddle
easy to control
A great first time beginner board would be either a “soft top” or a “mini mall” board.
Choosing the right surfboard for you
Foam Board/ Foamie: Length 7ft – 9ft
Pros
Cheap to buy (Lost of secondhand surf school boards available)
Soft Safe – if it hits you won’t hurt like a hard board
You can surf white-water
Easy to catch most waves
Perfect for surfers surfing one or twice a year
Cons
Weight – holding can be quite difficult for big and heavy
Larger boards harder to transport
Can absorb a lot of water
Not much cheaper than hard surfboards
Not ideal for surfing over shoulder-high waves
Can be difficult to paddle out on when surf is bigger
Wont last as long as a fiberglass or epoxy boards.
Longboard: Length 8ft – 9ft+
Pros
Fast track progression, your learning to surf a hard board
More responsive, faster and more maneuverable than foam boards
Can learn to do longboard moves – like cross stepping, hanging 5 etc
Able to surf in bigger waves above head high
Holds its re-sale value well.
Always great to have a longboard for smaller summer conditions.
Cons
Difficult to fit in most cars if it’s over 8ft
Heavier and bulky to carry item to carry
Hard surfboard means it’s going to hurt more than a foam board if it hits you
Can be more difficult to catch waves than a foam board
Can be difficult to transport on airplanes because of their length
Good for unbroken ‘green’ waves not as great in the whitewater
Mini-Mal Surfboards: Length 7’0 – 8’0
Pros
Smaller than longboard, easier to carry
Fits in to most small cars
Easier to paddle out in bigger surf than a large foam board
Likely to progress your surfing a little faster and improve paddle fitness
Epoxy versions can be very durable.
Good resale value. Small amount of depreciation from new
Long term investment, you can surf minimal forever and perfect for smaller days
Possible to take on planes
Cons
Harder to catch waves than a longboard or foamie
Size – Can be difficult to get out back in overhead high
Not as fast as smaller surfboards
Fun Board “Magic Carpet”: Length 6’10 – 7’2
Pros
Similar to minimals, but smaller, fun boards/ Magic Carpet are
Very stable easy to balance
Single fin and thruster options available
Easy to carry Lighter than large longboards and foamies
Slightly smaller than minimals, can be faster/ easier to paddle out back in bigger conditions
Good wave range from knee-high to overhead high surf
Small enough to be allowed on most airlines if you travel
Progressive enough that you could carry on surfing this type of board for a long time
Popular boards with the general surfing public, so hold resale value well.
Small enough to fit in most cars
Cons
Less volume than a longboard so requires more effort to catch waves
Can be a more challenging board to learn on for complete beginners than a longboard
Difficult to rider on steeper more hallow waves because of flatter rocker and wider nose
Not as fast or as maneuverable as shortboards/ have quite a big turning radius.
Large Fish Surfboard: Length 6’4 +
Pros
Lots of cool designs available at affordable prices
Faster and more maneuverable than the other boards covered above (longboards, foamies, minimals and magic carpets)
Relatively light and easy to carry
Easier to duck dive under waves when paddling out
Epoxy versions can be durable
Can surf small waist-high to overhead waves
If a beginner can surf a fish then it might be the only board they ever want
Twin fin, tri 3 fin thruster and quad versions are available
Small enough to be allowed on most airlines
Cons
More difficult to catch waves compared to a with larger boards
Lower wave count for beginners likely. Need to be able to catch unbroken green waves to get the most out of a fish not designed to catch white water with
Be proficient at duck diving to help get under waves when paddling out.
Non – epoxy versions get damaged quite easily particular on the nose and fishtail.
‘Big’ Shortboards /Guns /Step ups – 6’6 to 7’2+
Pros
Fast and easier to turn than longer boards#
Able to catch bigger waves without sacrificing short board performance
Lightweight and so easier to carry around
Will fit in cars easily
Easier to duck dive out in bigger surf
Epoxy versions can be durable
Small enough to be allowed on most airlines
Tri (3) fin thruster and quad versions are available
Cons
Harder to catch waves and paddle. Lower wave count for beginners
Beginners might struggle, shortboards are mainly designed for surfing bigger waves – chest to head high+
Ability to catch unbroken green waves, not designed to catch white water
Need to be able to duck dive to be able to get under waves when paddling out.
Ability to turn and generate speed on a shortboard is key.
resale value less compared to some of the other boards.
Performance Shortboards 6’6 – 5’10
Pros
Fast light and very responsive, easy to turn
Lightweight and so easier to carry around
Perfect for high performance surfing
Will fit in cars easily easy to travel with on airplanes
Easier to duck dive out in bigger surf
Epoxy versions can be durable
Variations of Tri (3) fin thruster, and quad (4) available
Cons
Harder to catch waves and paddle for beginners slower paddling
Designed for quality unbroken green waves chest to head high+ not for whitewater
Need to be able to duck dive to be able to get under waves when paddling out.
Need good balance to maintain stability
Good Ability to turn and generate speed, to keep you the power zone and the board planning
Can have weaker resale value compared to some of the other boards.
Looks the cool but hardest to surf
Grovelers Shortboards 6’2 – 5’4
Pros
Designed for high performance surfing in small waves (up to shoulder height)
Fast light and very responsive, easy to turn
Lightweight and so easier to carry around
Faster and Plane better than performance shortboards in smaller waves helping to keep speed through turns
Will fit in cars easily easy to travel with on airplanes
Wider than performance shortboards easier to paddle and balance.
Epoxy versions can be durable
Variations of Tri (3) fin thruster, and quad (4) available
Cons
Usually has higher volume than performance board so can’t turn as hard
Less responsive than a high performance board
Harder to catch waves for beginners more time spent paddling
Designed for quality unbroken waves or choppy condition chest to head high+ not for whitewater or overhead high bigger waves
Usually Harder to duck dive in bigger waves than performance board
Need to be able to duck dive to be able to get under waves when paddling out.
Need good balance to maintain stability
Ability to turn and generate speed to stay in the power zone to keep the board planning
Can have weaker resale value compared to some of the other boards.
Conclusion
So hopefully some of this information has helped you make a decision on what board is best for you. Surfing is a challenge for a lifetime so whether you have hundreds of board or just one. It all comes back to personal preference and the waves you going to be surfing. If you still unsure always good to seek local advice as they will be able to give you firsthand knowledge of the appropriate board to get for the conditions. Remember the more you practice the better you get the more choice will become available to you.